But those silhouettes are typically dreamt up, fitted and realized on a tall, slim and young physique. The idea of haute couture was always to adapt silhouettes to the client’s body. So, I broke the rules and got 10 house models in with differently proportioned bodies,” he explained. But it was impossible to do this with just one house model. I wanted to break these rules and embrace the idea of different proportions of body, different sizes, different ages. And you apply the body of the house model to 50 or 60 models on the runway. “When you do couture, you have the house model.
Today, in front of a distanced audience of just 65, he broke with the skinny stigma of that heritage in a collection titled the Anatomy of Couture. On his mission to make this elitist corner of fashion matter to the generations dubbed “woke,” he has decided to “keep the codes, but change the values”: to give the broad spectrum of humanity the chance to mirror themselves in haute couture, in place of the waify, white, classical beauty ideal of its past. Never.” It is in large part thanks to Piccioli that haute couture is finding relevance in an age set on breaking the constructs of the past. “She was told she’d never walk couture,” Pierpaolo Piccioli said of one of them during a preview the day before. You could see the emotion in the eyes of some of Valentino’s models as they glided through the maison’s Place Vendôme salons to a specially recorded soundtrack by Anohni.
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